Ruth goes to South Korea!

15 June 2023

Ruth Leslie, our social media and exhibition assistant, spent 2.5 weeks in South Korea exploring the beauty of Gyeongju as well as vibrant Busan and trendy Seoul. Here are some of her favourite places from her travels…

YANGDONG FOLK VILLAGE

Yangdong Folk Village (Yangdong Village of Gyeongju) is a traditional yangban (Korean Aristocracy) village from the Joseon dynasty and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site – rightly so! It is located in a beautiful natural setting and to me, the man-made buildings only add to the overall beauty. The preservation of so many thatched roofs was particularly impressive and you really get a feel for the old ways of life. We also had the most delicious traditional Korean meal – fish fillet with banchan and Makgeolli (Korean rice wine) at a local family run restaurant located in the village. A must-visit!

A home in Yangdong Folk Village
Old storage jars (for edibles like Kimchi) and thatched roofs in Yangdong Folk Village
Banchan (Korean side dishes) at the family-run restaurant

BUSAN

Busan is Korea’s second-most populous city after Seoul. I wish I had more time to explore but from my brief visit, it felt like a good combination of seaside town (although a LOT bigger) meets bustling night life. There is plenty of fresh fish and seafood to dine on and it’s also a great place to enjoy some proper karaoke – Koreans know how to do it right!

Gamcheon Culture Village in Busan - the 'Santorini of Korea'
Fish at Jagalchi fish market in Busan
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Buddhist temple in Busan
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Buddhist temple in Busan

Rakkojae Main Hanok in Seoul

One of my favourite parts of the whole trip was staying in Rakkojae Hanok (a traditional Korean house) in Bukchon Hanok Village. ‘Meaning “a place where one can enjoy the traditions of times past and rest one’s soul,” Rakkojae Seoul is a Korean traditional culture space with a history of 130 years. Here, the harmony created between traditional Korean architecture and nature has created on opportunity for the true beauty of Hanok to shine.’ And it truly was all that – peaceful, elegant and beautiful with the best customer service.

Tea on arrival, Rakkojae Hanok
My wee room at Rakkojae Hanok
The view from my room at Rakkojae Hanok
Rakkojae Hanok
Traditional Korean breakfast, Rakkojae Hanok

SEOUL

There is SO much to see and do in Seoul but here is a quick round-up to get you started – some tourist attractions, many museums and craft exhibitions, cool shops and cafes galore. As a jeweller and maker, the exceptional craft and artisans of Korea are unparalleled.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

The 'Changing of the Guards' practice at Gyeongbokgung Palace
Inside one of the many buildings of Gyeongbokgung Palace
Gyeongbokgung Palace grounds

Seoul Museum of Craft Art

Historical tools used in metal and woodworking
Traditional Korean mother-of-pearl lacquerware
Tools of a traditional workshop

dongdaemun design plaza

The Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) is a major urban development landmark in Seoul, South Korea, designed by Zaha Hadid and Samoo, with a distinctively neofuturistic design characterised by the “powerful, curving forms of elongated structures.” It is a very impressive space and I particularly enjoyed the contrast of giant pink bears dotted in and around the complex.

Dongdaemun Design Plaza complimented by pink Bellygom Bear
Dongdaemun Design Plaza

The Seoul exploring continues...

A converted Hanok into a trendy shop, Ikseon-dong Hanok Village
A converted Hanok into a trendy shop, Ikseon-dong Hanok Village
Hongdae coffee shop - they love iced coffee in Korea!
Hongdae coffee shop - one of thousands of very cool coffee shops in Seoul
Traditional yet modern jewellery display in a shop in Hongdae

Leeum Museum of Art

The Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art consists of two parts that house traditional Korean art and contemporary art. I only visited the permanent exhibition showcasing traditional Korean art which I thoroughly enjoyed, along with the shop and architecture. I officially have my eye on those gold chunky earrings.

Leeum Musuem of Art
5-6th century earrings from Three Kingdoms Period
Dagger from Samhan Period, 2nd century BCE-1st century CE
Inside stairwell of Leeum Museum of Art

Incredible craft & design...

Craft Seoul in Korea Craft Week

Craft Makgeolli (Korean rice wine)
'Ugly Pot' series by Kim Gyutae
Handcrafted brushes in Insadong
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